training

Key Take Aways

✅ It is clear that routesetting in recent international competitions favors dyno routes by a wide margin. As such, a significant amount of training should focus around dynamic movements on a wide variety of hand hold sizes, positions, configurations, and sequences. Training around improving contact strength should be included given the nature of difficulty in not only mastering the movement but sticking the hold

✅ The data supports that climbers struggled with dyno routes as indicated by the increased number of attempts

Population

Elite international competition climbers

Summary

A study published in 2021 reviewed 14 World Cup events from 2017 and 2018 to determine and quantify boulder types used in international competition

Boulder type was defined by the crux move in a boulder route as Dyno, Volume, Crimp, Slab, or Mantle

Prevalence of Boulder Types:

Womens Results:
50% Dyno
26% Volume
9% Crimp
9% Slab
6% Mantle

Mens Results:
55% Dyno
24% Volume
10% Crimp
5% Slab
6% Mantle

Competitive bouldering continues to evolve. Gone are the days of hard crimpy old school bouldering; parkour-like new school bouldering seems here to stay. This is evident at the sport’s highest level

Citation

Augste, C., Sponar, P., and Winkler, M. (2021). Athletes' performance in different boulder types at international bouldering competitions. Int. J. Perform. Anal. Sport. 21, 409–420

Link

https://opus.bibliothek.uni-augsburg.de/opus4/frontdoor/deliver/index/docId/92521/file/92521.pdf