training
Pull-ups with Small Climbing Holds Influences Grip & Biomechanics Arm Action (Vigouroux et al, 2019)
Key Take Aways
✅ Both pull ups on a bar and on a small edge have value in a comprehensive training program. The utility of pull ups on a bar and small edge largely depends on your training objectives
Population
Elite male climbers
Summary
A study published in 2019 measured max force, power, and work on pull ups using different grip types:
➡️ On a gym bar
➡️ On large holds
➡️ On 22mm,18mm,14mm, and 10mm edges
Researchers found:
➡️ Max force, power, and work all decreased with pull ups on a smaller edge
Participants were able to complete less # of pull ups on smaller edges
➡️ These data have many training implications. Understanding this data does not make pull ups on a bar superior to pull ups on small edges, and vice versa; it depends on what you are targeting with each grip position
➡️ If you are looking to mimic climbing conditions, pull ups on a smaller edge may be beneficial as it requires more body tension not to lose grip on smaller holds and forearm cocontraction (flexors and extensors firing together) is more similar to actual climbing
➡️ If you are looking to improve your power, pull ups on large holds may be beneficial as a larger grip allows you to complete the pull up motion much faster (power is quick force production).
If you are an advanced climber, developing power on small holds is also important, pull ups on smaller edges is useful however just realize that your power on large holds and small holds will never be equal
➡️ If you are a novice climber, developing pull up power on a bar maybe easier as it does not require the body control and cocontraction that smaller edges require
➡️ If you are looking to train your entire upper limb chain, pull ups on smaller edges is useful as EMG indicates that there’s more cocontraction
➡️ If you are looking to improve forearm endurance and finger force, pull ups on smaller edges are useful as fatigue is high and finger force is low with smaller edges
Citation
Vigouroux L, Devise M, Cartier T, Aubert C, Berton E. Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action. J Sports Sci. 2019 Apr;37(8)
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