training
Female Climber: Resistance Training Barriers (Langer, 2023)
Key Take Aways
✅ On wall, climb specific resistance training such as utilization of a kilter board may be a way to introduce females to resistance training as this approach seems to reduce barriers to resistance training and is seen positively due to its utility
✅ Both the technique and resistance training groups improved in:
➡️ Exercise discomfort
➡️ Rate of perceived exertion
➡️ Boulder performance
✅ The technique group showed higher intrinsic motivation compared to the resistance group in:
➡️ Effort
➡️ Importance
➡️ Usefulness
Population
Advanced Female climbers (v6/ 5.12c)
Summary
It is clear that resistance training improves climbing performance
In general, research has found that females are less likely to participate in resistance training due to:
➡️ gender stigma
➡️ negative comments and discouragement
➡️ boredom
➡️ lack of knowledge
However, are there further barriers for females that males do not experience with regards to resistance training in climbing?
Females continue to be an under represented population in climbing literature
A short paper was presented at the annual IRCRA meeting in 2023 whose aim was to understand how female climbers perceive and experience resistance training
21 advanced (V6 and 5.12c) female climbers were split into 2 groups and underwent 5 weeks of resistance training:
➡️ Technique training: consisted of specific Kilter board problems
➡️ Resistance training: consisted of ring rows and a fingerboard protocol
Citation
Langer K, Stien N. Contrasting Resistance and Technique Training Perception in Advanced Female Rock Climbers. 6th IRCRA Congress, Bern, August 7-10, 2023
Link