Performance
Competitive Performance Predictors in Bouldering (Winkler et al, 2023)
Key Take Aways
✅ Male and females have different sets of predictors for comp climbing performance suggesting that training approaches should be different
✅ Finger strength is less of a predictor for modern competition climbing possibly due to current route setting style
✅ While finger strength remains important, modern route setting tends to emphasize other trainable characteristics
Population
Male (v9) and female (v7) climbers
Summary
What is the #1 predictor of competition climbing performance?
It’s not what you think
(According to a short paper presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress meeting in 2023)
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In females (N=26, v7):
✅ Flexibility
✅ Arm strength
✅ Finger endurance
Were all better predictors of climbing competition performance than
➡️ Finger strength
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In males (N=35, v9):
✅ Power in the lower limbs
✅ Power in the upper limbs
✅ Constitution
Were all better predictors of climbing completion performance than
➡️ Finger strength
CItation
Winkler M, Künzell S, Augste C. Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. J Sports Sci. 2023 Jun;41(8):736-746
Link