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  • Home
  • About EBC
  • Research Topics
    • Training
    • Chronic Injury
    • Acute Injury
    • Kinematics
    • Youth Climbing
    • Performance
    • Climbing Psychology
  • Contact Us

Performance

Competitive Performance Predictors in Bouldering (Winkler et al, 2023)

Key Take Aways

✅ Male and females have different sets of predictors for comp climbing performance suggesting that training approaches should be different

✅ Finger strength is less of a predictor for modern competition climbing possibly due to current route setting style

✅ While finger strength remains important, modern route setting tends to emphasize other trainable characteristics


Population

Male (v9) and female (v7) climbers 


Summary

What is the #1 predictor of competition climbing performance?

It’s not what you think

(According to a short paper presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress meeting in 2023)
———————————————————————
In females (N=26, v7):
✅ Flexibility
✅ Arm strength
✅ Finger endurance
Were all better predictors of climbing competition performance than
➡️ Finger strength

———————————————————————
In males (N=35, v9):
✅ Power in the lower limbs
✅ Power in the upper limbs
✅ Constitution
Were all better predictors of climbing completion performance than
➡️ Finger strength


CItation

Winkler M, Künzell S, Augste C. Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. J Sports Sci. 2023 Jun;41(8):736-746


Link

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37486001/

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